July 2019
Positano, a love affair that started 30 years ago, a love affair that I never quite got over and one that has seen me continually return too. She awaits faithfully, unchanged, with her steep cliffs flanked by pastel buildings interwoven with cacti, pines and lemon trees. The azure waters of the Tyrrhenian sea still laps gently at her rocky shores, rolling and polishing them as it moves. Life is easy, the days are warm, people are happy, the food tantalising and her beauty in my eyes, unsurpassable.
Palazzo Murat
Words fail me when it comes to our Amalfi oasis that we have retreated to with each return. Palazzo Murat built in the 17th century, belonging to the King of Naples. Gioacchino Murat. The Palazzo would become his summer residence shared with his wife Carolina Bonaparte, Napoleons sister, summers filled with decadent parties for friends, families and secret lovers.
Her walls are wrapped in Bougainvillea that curls its way across her balconies and yellow doors. Below a beautifully appointed courtyard, a perfect place to enjoy an afternoon Aperol or to listen to a solo pianist or harp player. A few steps down and the piece de la resistance, the restaurant garden created by Donna Carmela and passed down to her daughter Marilu, a green oasis in the middle of the hustle and bustle of the outside laneways. Perfectly planted with oranges and citrus trees, mixed with frangipani and star jasmine. Lines of vegetables strike a handsome pose against the towering mountains and the smell of it all is intoxicating.
By the pool being fabulous, Italian Nona’s bake like lounge lizards in their superb bikinis with their perfectly manicured nails and orange lipstick, indulging in a cigarette every half hour.
The gardens are home to one of my favourtie Amalfi artists work, Paolo Sandulli’s head pieces
BEACH: LA SPIAGGIA OCEAN: IL MARE
SPIAGGIA GRANDE
At the bottom of Positano’s steep streets and wisteria-draped hotels you will find Spiaggia Grande, the most central and most popular of Positano Beaches. You tend to find the locals directly in front of Buca de Bacca at “spiaggia libera” or in English the “free” beach, which we have noticed has considerable shrunk over the last few decades. Here you can lay your towel down across the warm stones free of charge, be warned though at the height of summer you will need to arrive early in order to secure your own bit of real estate in this sort out area. To the east of here, still part of the 300 meter stretch are the private strips, for which Positano postcards have become famous for with row upon row of colourful umbrellas.
LA SCOGLIERA
Located at the end of the Spiaggia Grande stretch is La Scogliera, a small corner of paradise for couples only. Everything from Wifi to regularly changed towels and full food and drink service is on offer here, for the beach goer who demands comfort and attention then this little rocky outcrop is for you.
FORNILLO
One of my favourite beaches is the next bay to the west of Marina Grande, here tucked under the steep cliffs is the little hidden gem of Fornillo. A quieter beach, popular with locals, Fornillo is easily accessible by following Via Positanesi D’Americana around the point until you reach Via Fornillo. Its an easy ten minute walk with spectacular scenery to soak up whilst your walking. If walking proves troublesome, the clubs along this stretch of beach offer complimentary water taxis available if you are using their facilities whilst at Fornillo. You can catch these regular services from the small jetty in the center of Spiagga Grande.
ABOVE: Beach Scenes on the walk around to Fornillo. Tiny beaches adorn the coastline on the path along the coastline here, some entered by tiny cliff openings, the walkways flanked by bougainvillea.
Fornillo Beach with her beautiful clear waters and lines of brightly coloured umbrellas. Several beach clubs line the shores, perfect for a cool drink or light lunch.
LAURITO
Laurito, another favourite, is tucked away to the east of Positano and also home to one of my favourite restaurants anywhere in the world, Da Adolfo. Once a place that locals would escape too, this tiny stretch of beach has now become famous for the two businesses that are run from here, Da Adolfo, a family run restaurant and the newly redone Treville Beach Club which also offers accommodation. For those travelling by road, Laurito is accessible via a steep flight of stairs from the top of the cliff at the small square opposite Hotel San Pietro. More popular however is by gozzo (local fishing boats) that leave every half hour from 10 am at the pier on Positano’s Spiaggia Grande. On our last visit to Positano we noticed that Da Adolfo had become almost impossible to book. Unless you have their direct mobile number your best way of trying to access a table for lunch is to send a request to your hotel at least 1-2 months in advance to see if they can organise the booking for you. They do not allow you any longer to board the gozzo unless you have a confirmed lunch booking for that day. When doing your reservation for lunch make sure you also include one of the sun lounges at the front so you can linger a little longer and make the most of your day around there.
ARIENZO
Arriving at Arienzo Beach from above affords you the luxury of capturing glimpses of some of the most spectacular Villas on the Amalfi Coast. 300 steps down and you arrive on to this perfect little beach, facing south west this stretch enjoys the sun longer than any other in Positano. As with the other small beaches along this coastline if water shuttle is more your style, several run the short 15 minute trip between here and Spiaggia Grande all day. The beach is divided into private and public sections with a sun lounge in the private section setting you back between 15- 20 Euros for the day. Bagni Arienzo Beach Club serves up fresh seafood, salads and antipasto to keep that hunger at bay, online booking is available via their website and recommended to ensure you secure a table.
The beaches mentioned above are all close to the heart of Positano, easily accessible by way of shuttle boat or by local bus or moped from above. There are other fabulous bays and villages to be discovered all along this coastline here, over the years we have visited them by all means of transport from motorbikes (not recommended), to cars, bus, hire boat and our own little boat which still this day is my favourite way to see the coastline as well as one of the easiest ways, with the waters in this area being calm and easily manouevered in comparison to those we encounter in Australia. People have often asked which have been our favourites and below I have listed a few that we always return to each time we visit.
DISCOVER THE COASTLINE AROUND POSITANO
Water views up and down the Amalfi Coast
CAPRI
If you are travelling with a large group or have met up with friends staying in the area, one of the best days out is to hire a one of the larger skippered boats and head for Capri. Marvel at the Faraglioni rock formations, swim off the back of the boat in the secluded bays of Capri and Anacapri then explore the wonders of the blue grotto. When its time for lunch, have Il Ricco gotto come to collect you from your vessel and bring you in for an unforgettable feast.
LA CONCA DEL SOGNO
La Conca del Sogno, until the late 1950’s was a stone quarry. Managed by the Tizzani family, it was around this time that they began to see a gradual decrease in the demand for stone and thought that perhaps a shift in direction was needed. What a shift it was, opening a small family run restaurant that today looks out over this secluded bay with its crystal clear waters, secret beaches and hidden caves. The environment in which it is nestled is hard to surpass and the food and the hospitality is equally impressive.
RAVELLO
Perched high above the bay of Maiori is the beautiful town of Ravello with her magnificent gardens, her cobblestone streets and her stately villas. From its original beginings during the 5th century, as a place of refuge from barbarian invaders ram sacking Rome, Ravello evolved into a different kind of refugee, one which attracted the artists, the musicians and the intellects.
It has become a cultural hub for the arts as well as home to some of Italy’s finest music festivals. We have visited here each time to be inspired by her manicured gardens and to be wooed by the likes of Villa Cimbrone and Villa Rufolo. We have been entertained under the Italian stars at outdoor concerts that jut out from steep cliffs, where we marveled at not only the music but the surreal surroundings that we found ourselves in. Then there have been the intimate piano solos, performed in century old rooms in large villas that have left us speechless and amazed at just how much a setting can enhance a performance. For such a little town Ravello packs a powerful punch, make sure you add it to your Amalfi bucket list even if its just for the afternoon so you too can absorb yourself in her magic even if its just for a few hours.
Villa Rufolo
Villa Cimbrone
EAT
Eating in Positano is a serious affair. and all I can say is that the list is long! Below are our combined favourites and I am sure you will find something here that you will enjoy as much as we did.
Casa E Bottega
After all the pasta and bread consumed Casa e Bottega is a refreshing change. One of our favourites serving up fresh juices, baguettes and tantalising salads. Aesthetically pleasing to the eye with a myriad of goodies that can be purchased after lunch.
Collina Bakery
For the lovers of a sweet treat, Collina Bakery will be the death of you. I had to place a self imposed ban on myself and I don’t even have a sweet tooth. Delectable little morsels, expresso, gelato or a strong G & T this little hole in the wall has it all.
RISTORANTE MAX
Tucked away down a small flight of stairs is Ristorante Max. From the unassuming frontage, we would never have found this hidden gem had it not been for the continual recommendation from locals around Positano, it was one restaurant that appeared on each locals list, which to us was a sign it needed to be visited and we weren’t disappointed. Located in the heart of Positano it has the feel of an art gallery full of ancient pieces, something I would expect to find maybe in Rome not in Positano. The wine list is extensive, the food superb and surroundings intriguing. We have dined as a group of 3 in the intimate underground cellar, to the library room where walls are flanked by ancient books and wine stacked high, the rest of the walls filled from floor to the ceiling with elaboratetly framed art work. I love the intimacy of it, the mystery, it is as if we have dropped in on an old friend from last century, who has welcomed us in to his villa, if walls could talk I think these ones would have good tales to tell. For those who prefer to eat al fresco there is an outside terrace, the garden room, for a table here however you will need to book well in advance to secure a spot.
Chez Black
Chez Black, what can I say. For anyone who has visited Positano they all tend to know Chez Black. Holding court in her prime position on the front of Spiaggia Grande she is no shrinking violet with her wide frontage and tables that spill out nearly to the sand. Always busy, always noisy and always full of people who appear to be having a fabulous time. The attraction to belong is real and we have spent many a lunch and dinner either alone or at large tables surrounded by friends doing exactly the same. When visiting Positano make sure you book in here and indulge in one of her pizza’s or infamous seafood dishes.
FRANCO’S BAR
A work of art, an alfresco bar protruding like a raft from Positano’s cliff face, with unsurpassable views across the Salerno Gulf, Franco’s has to be my favourite watering hole on the Amalfi coast. In their own words “Franco’s Bar pays homage to a golden age of fine spirits, cocktails and bubbly, when cultured imbibers knew their Old Fashioned from their French 75, and what kind of glass they should be served in.” A fabulous spot if you can secure a table at sunset where the drinks list is as amazing as its design. A cocktail at Franco’s Bar is a must.
LA SPONDA
A reservation at Le Sirenuse’s romantic La Sponda, is like floating around in a dream. With 400 candles lit each night and a view from the Terrace that could make even the most indulged amongst us jaw drop, La Sponda is in every sense an unforgettable dining experience. Superb contemporary Italian using the freshest ingredients enjoyed whilst the sound of the strumming guitarist floats through out the restaurant. Service is impeccable, bookings required six months in advance to secure a Terrace table for dinner.
PALAZZO MURAT COURTYARD BAR
Another love, the courtyard bar at Palazzo Murat Hotel. The perfect place to meet with friends for a predinner drink in this beautifully appointed atrium in the heart of this magnificent Palazzo.
Positano does bite deep. There is still so much I could write about here, enough in fact to fill a small book, but this is where I leave you. As in any town or village there are many layers to unfold and I am grateful that each time we return she has remained the same but still offers a host of new discoveries to engage us and inspire us. I yearn for her rocky shores and azure coloured waters, for the time being however the large painting of her pastel buildings that hangs above my bed, the same one that hangs above the bed in Room 25 of Palazzo Murat, will have to suffice.
