July 2018

I have always had an affiliation with Mexico, I am unsure why. The colour, the energy, the traditions, Mayan culture and the folk art, I can never learn enough or have enough of it near me. I have pondered my obsession for years, was I Mexican in a former life or was I influenced subconsciously during my younger years growing up in Melbourne around the corner from Market Import. For those not from Melbourne, Market Import is somewhat of an institution, their enclave in Morey St, Armadale, home to all things Mexican, beautifully curated, gathered from all corners of the country. It was one of my entire families favourite haunts. When anyone returned to Melbourne after we left, it was compulsory that a visit was in order and that a small gift be purchased for each member, to be handed out when they returned. So on the eve of a significant birthday a trip to Mexico was locked in to indulge my fascination with this country.

Tulum

We chose to base ourselves on the Riviera Maya at the jungle oasis of Tulum. Flanked by powdery white sand and the turquoise waters of the Caribbean this little town, a once chilled out backpackers paradise is slowly transforming into somewhat of a hot spot.

Nestled on the beach side of Beach Road is the former hideaway of drug lord Pablo Escobar this was to be our home for 10 days. Equipped with bullet proof walls and escape tunnels the property has been transformed by New York based art aficionado Lio Malca and reborn as Casa Malca Opening in 2015, Malca has merged his artistic endeavours with this five star hotel, with his collection of contemporary artists on constant rotation through out the hotel. The entrance is something to behold, huge raw wooden doors flanked by white curtains constructed from Mexican lace wedding dresses.

There are 35 rooms and suites scattered through out the jungle, we selected the Junior Suite Beach Front in which to stay and we weren’t disappointed. A fabulous large space even with the three of us, each morning we would roll from our beds step straight out onto the powdery white sand, with floor to ceiling windows, we had the full view of the ocean from any spot in the suite. With an eclectic feel each suite is home to an amazing curation of art on the walls. The air conditioning was a welcome relief on the exceptionally hot and humid nights, bathrooms were beautifully appointed in their moody tones and earthy basins and shower room.

Room with a View, Junior Ocean Suite

With three pools to select from, one being underground, and two fabulous restaurants serving up a mix of local and international cuisine some would say there would be no reason to leave the confinements of the hotel. A week could be spent just here, on the quietest stretch of beach in Tulum, in the white washed beach cabanas or strategically placed hammocks, swaying the days away with the gentle summer breeze and a good book. As night falls you could make your way up to the roof top with its Sunset bar and 360 degree views of Tulum, perfect spot to enjoy the show at dusk.

If you can drag yourself away from the clutches of Casa Malca however, there is much to indulge in. The actual town of Tulum is located on Highway 307 away from the beach strip, popular with locals, you will find the essentials, banks, pharmacies, shops and cafes here. The larger tourist style shops line the main drag here and if you take the time some treasures can be found when sorting through this line up.

Most of our time however was spent along the Tulum Beach strip, a sandy road that runs parallel to the Ocean from Tulum Mayan ruins down to the Sian Ka’an biosphere. You will find most of the hotels along here with a wide range of restaurants and small boutiques at your finger tips, you are spoilt for choice. Everything along here is easily accessed either by walking or bike. Most of the hotels provide bikes, if not there are plenty of bike hire places scattered all through Tulum.

There are some fabulous small boutiques along the beach strip. Local artisans combined with exclusive labels providing something for everyone from art, home decor and traditional crafts through to breezy summer kaftan, handmade leather shoes to match and maybe a locally made necklace to add to this eclectic collection.

HARTWOOD

Probably the best meal we had whilst in Tulum. Atmosphere, service and food were exceptional. TIP: Make sure you book ahead on line at least a month before you arrive.

GITANO

Mesmerising at night with the jungle alight with candles. Food is fresh and delicious. The bar mixes a mean cocktail and if a spot of shopping is on the menu this is also available at the Gitano Boutique, with a well curated collection of clothes, jewelry and special one of pieces.

POSADA MARGHERITA

Overlooking the beach is this little eclectic restaurant serving up fantastic Italian with an exceptional wine list to match. White washed walls, fresh fruit and veg stacked high all around, this little gem is a local favourite.

CASA JAGUAR

A small rustic restaurant, bar, boutique in the heart of the Mexican Jungle. The presentation and creativity that they have bought to this small space is mind blowing. I wanted to move in.

NOMADE

Just down from Casa Malca is Nomade hotel. The food at both their restaurants was fantastic and loved sitting at Le Popular looking out over the ocean.

MATCHA MAMA

For those who love an Acai bowl, Kombucha or Fresh Juice, this is your go too.

There were many highlights of our trip here and most days we would venture out to explore the surroundings.

MAYAN RUINS

The Mayan Ruins, a place of myth and mystery, half an hour bike ride from our hotel or a 15 minute taxi ride, the ruins are spectacular. Flourishing from the 13 the century through to the 15th century they cut an impressive silhouette on the 12 meter high cliffs overlooking the Caribbean.

CENOTES

There are over 6000 Cenote in the Yucatan Peninsula. These large sink holes are formed when the limestone bedrock collapses exposing the ground water underneath. They often have large extensive cave systems attached to them which feed through to magnificent, crystal clear water holes. They can be shallow or reach as deep as eighty meters and often home to bats, turtles and a myriad of fish. There are so many in the surrounding areas of Tulum. We visited 3 during our stay, Cenote Tortuga, Cenote Dos Ojos and Cenote Casa all of them completely different from each other. Tip: A visit to the cenotes is the perfect thing to do on the really hot days. They are such a beautiful spot to cool off in.

ABOVE CENOTES DOS OJOS AND CASA TORTUGA

COBA

Just a thirty minute drive from Tulum is the ancient Mayan city of Coba. Over 2000 years old, this archaeological site is the largest network of stone causeways in the Mayan world. It is estimated that there are approximately 6,500 structures located here but to date only a few have been uncovered. Coba is believed to have been the largest of all Mayan cities with a population of 50,000 spread over an 80 square kilometer area through the Yucatan jungle.

These mystic ruins are accessible by bikes along easy, flat pathways. The state’s tallest pyramid holds court, Nohoch Mul and it is still open to the public to be climbed. It is huge in structure and the climb is extremely step but the view from the top is jaw dropping. It is mind blowing when contemplating how these structures were constructed so long ago and still so sound and relatively untouched 2000 years on.

Whilst in Coba, make sure you detour to the sublime Coqui Coqui Coba Papholchac Residence and Spa. Rising out of the jungle, this unique hideaway is breathtaking. You could choose to stay, checking in to one of their suites that look out over the Mayan pyramids and the green lagoon. If just passing through maybe some lunch and a purchase from their dreamy perfumery.

Often when something is highly anticipated it results in disappointment, this trip however did not. It was everything I had hoped for and more. It opened my eyes to how large and how diverse Mexico was and planted the seed for other areas I would like to return too and explore. Many people have asked about the safety aspect of Mexico. Tulum itself was extremely safe, we were out every night and rode or walked our way home in the dark along Beach Rode, at no time did we feel unsafe nor uncomfortable. If we were not riding we caught Taxis to all cenotes, Coba and areas around Tulum and did not witness anything that would make us feel uneasy. Our trip north to Holbox however was different. The months leading up to our arrival, Quintana Roo (the area in which we travelled in) had been the target of many car jackings and attempted kidnaps of foreigners. At the Hotels insistence, for this trip, a specific company that specialised in bullet proof transporters and ex army trained guides was booked. Apparently some of the area we were to travel through did pose more of a threat. Our guide Andree was Ex Navy Seal, a mean driver and had his wits about him all the while being extremely informative of the areas we travelled through and too. I think if you are travelling here you do need to listen to the advice of locals and act on what their suggestions are.