December 2017
Tokyo, a buzzing metropolis that blends her vibrant energy and all that is new so seemlessly with her traditional ways. A contradiction done well, with her sprawling high rises and her diverse neighbourhoods stretching as far as the eye can see, I don’t know if it would be possible to ever truly discover everything that she has to offer. But that’s the beauty of her and the reason why we keep returning, there is always something new waiting to be discovered, something new to be learnt, something new to marvel at.
GINZA
Our last trip we based ourselves in heart of the Ginza District. Synonymous with luxury shopping, small specialty boutiques, art galleries and with a renowned food scene it was an easily navigated neighbourhood for Tom and I to explore.
MITSUI GARDENS HOTEL
A short 3 minute walk from the main shopping arteries of Chuo Dori Street and Harumi Dori Street is Mitsui Garden Hotel. Recently renovated, the rooms were intimate and stylish. Located above the 16th floor, the views over the city and Tokyo Bay are spectacular. Everything you need is at your fingertips here. The Shinbushi station is across the road and all the little streets surrounding are filled with specialty boutiques, artisans and intimate bars and restaurants.
TSUKIJI FISH MARKETS
The location of the hotel proved convenient to the Tsukiji Fish markets. Opening at 5am six days a week and only a five minute stroll from the hotel, we indulged in a sushi breakfast several times during our stay. It would have to have been some of the freshest and most delicious sushi and sashimi we have enjoyed anywhere in the world. The markets are a buzz with people and energy, after hearing our Aussie accents over breakfast one morning, we were fortunate enough to be taken under the wing of one of the large wholesalers who had just returned from a working visit to Australia the previous day. He indulged us in a behind the scenes tour of the markets which is generally out of access to visitors. It was an amazing experience to see the everyday workings of a market, especially a market on this kind of scale, something we will never forget.
YAYOI KUSAMA MUSEUM
From the sprawling blocks of the Tsukiji Fish markets to marveling at the Avante-garde splashed walls of Yayoi Kusama’s museum in Shinjuku all in the space of half and hour is what I love about Tokyo, anything is possible and there is so much on offer.
The museum, rises out of the suburban sprawl of Shinjuku, a tall, white, curvaceous building, its windows a wash with Kusama’s signature polka dot patterned creations. Yayoi Kusama is one of Japans most prolific and influential artists who has earnt world wide recognition across many mediums but is best known for her multi reflective installations. The museum holds her most recent work produced over the last decade and not seen anywhere else in the world before. For art lovers this is definitely not to be missed. Tip: Tickets can not be purchased at the door, they can only be bought through the Museums website. Entry is timed and only valid for 90 minute time slots.
TOKYO TOWER
A great place to get your bearings in this huge city is Tokyo Tower which was built in 1958 to symbolise Japans recovery after the devastating effects of World War Two. With 360 degree views of the city you can see all the way out to the majestic Mount Fuji on a clear day. The glass floor 150 meters above ground level isn’t for the faint hearted but the views across all three levels are truly spectacular.
MEIJI SHRINE & YOYOGI PARK
Beautiful Yoyogi Park and adjacent Meiji Shrine offers a green refuge to the hustle and bustle of the outside world. Meiji Shrine was dedicated to the spirit of Emperor Meiji and his wife Empress Shoken, the first emperor of modern Japan ascending to the throne in 1867 until his death in 1912. It was after his death that 100,000 trees were collected from around Japan and planted in this once barren area of Tokyo transforming it into a sanctuary, offering shelter and refuge to the spirits of the Emperor and all those that visit. Spend the morning exploring around the Shrine, its tranquil gardens and manicured stone pathways, absorbed in the quiet world of Shintoism. Wander through to Yoyogi Park and explore its fifty four acres by bicycle with hire zones sprinkled through out the park. Marvel at the massive Torii gates at the entrance and the colourful Sake Barrels on display, there as offerings to the gods, they strike a handsome pose stacked high, nestled against the beautifully landscaped back drop.
quil
HARAJUKU
An easy walk from Yoyogi Park and Meiji is the area around Harajuku station, the Harajuku district, located within the suburb of Shibuya which has become the ground zero for Japans teenage culture with Lolita style dressing around every corner. The heart of this area is Takeshita Street which is a buzz with an eclectic collection of boutiques, fabulous vintage stores and tiny holes in the wall dishing up some fantastic food.
Takeshita Street harajuko
CAT STREET
Still within the Shibuya suburb is another favourite place to frequent, Cat Street. A haven of small boutiques, art galleries and restaurants, my suitcase always becomes a little heavier after a visit here. A must is Luke’s Lobster Bar with fresh Lobster arriving from Maine, USA daily. Rag Tag for vintage designer pieces, Opening Ceremony, Tin Tin Store, Usagi, Denim & Supply Ralph Lauren to name a few. For the homesick Australians you will find Byron Bay Coffee Company tucked away here along side intimate restaurants run by young, talented chefs not only serving up innovative meals but doing so in small creative spaces with superb fit outs.
For those visiting with children or who have a snake or bird fetish themselves, Shibuya is also home the the Snake Cafe on the 8th floor of the Sampo Sogo Building. With a son who has been obsessed with reptiles his entire life, the morning spent here was a highlight. Sit back on the red leather couches and indulge in a variety of snakes rapping their bodies around your arms, head and neck. The assistants that work here are very knowledgeable with regards reptiles and with a limited Japanese repertoire their near fluent English was a welcome addition. If reptiles aren’t your thing, the next block down is home to The Owl Cafe & Bar Owl Village on the 4th Floor of the ATM building. Having always been fascinated by owls it was an amazing opportunity to get up close to them. Most of the girls working here were studying some form of Animal studies at University and were very knowledgeable and only too happy to share all they knew.
COMMUNE 246
Having worked up an appetite from our animal handling, a 10 minute walk from here in neighbouring Omotesando is Commune 246. Commune is an eclectic, cluster of food trucks, easy on the eye, designed by a series of selected artists, with common areas constantly changed offering regulars something new to marvel at each time they return. Food is varied with every option from vegan to omnivore covered.
If you love the concept of Commune 246, the creative minds behind it have extended it further by offering visitors the chance to stay here in retro styled caravans with all the modern comforts. For those looking for a non traditional form of accommodation this would definitely be one to add to the bucket list for a night or two.
Caravan hotel tokyo
LOG ROAD, DAIKANYAMA
Log Road is in the heart of the district of Daikanyama, a suburb hailed as the “Brooklyn of Tokyo”. It is one of the hippest neighbourhoods in Tokyo, home to top end boutiques and some of the best cafes in the city.
Designed by architect Shin Ohori, this cedar clad outdoor shopping strip has been built over the disused Tokyu railway line, similar to The Highline in New York city. This narrow, elongated space is the perfect place to waist a few hours shopping and eating in one of the five retail spaces found along this relaxed green space in the heart of the hustle and bustle of Tokyo.
Spring Valley Brewery offers a superb lunch which is easily washed down with one of their brews made right there on site. A shop at Fred Segal afterwards is always a good idea, home to a perfectly curated mix of local and international designers, the ideal present for friends and family back home can always be found here.
ASAKUSA
The district of Asakusa is somewhat a juxtaposition between tradition and progressiveness. In the heart of it is Tokyo’s oldest temple Senso-Ji , surrounded by backstreets filled with traditional stalls and relaxed izakayas. Within a 20 minutes walk however you find yourself marvelling at human ingenuity at the base of the second tallest man made structure in the world, the Tokyo Sky Tree. Take a rickshaw tour around this area and absorb yourself in a more traditional Japan, full of charm and an old world pace. Pass through “Thunder Gate” and under its enormous red paper lantern, browse the stalls that run all the way up to the temple, many of which have been there for centuries offering snacks and souvenirs to those that come to explore this magnificent, ancient Buddhist spiritual site.
There is still so much that could be written about what to see and do in Tokyo and no two experiences in this city have ever been the same. Besides its diverse collection of neighbourhoods to discover, I think more than anything its the people of Japan that make the trip memorable and that has taught us the most. It is their quiet, understated ways, their elegance, humility and their style. Its the que at Tiotoya in Ginza, fifty people deep, devoid of heavy breathing, rolling eyes or cursing, all waiting patiently, calmly for their turn at the counter, where their purchase will be transformed into a work of art through its wrapping. wrapping so breathtakingly beautiful that it has often left me wondering if it was better than the actual gift that was enclosed. Its a series of these everyday moments that stay with me the most, they are the reasons why we travel and reason why we immerse ourselves in different cultures to learn and to be inspired by those whose shores we visit.
