July 2018

Rome, one of the most mesmerising cities in the world, a heady mix of haunting ruins, grandiose architecture and a gastronomical paradise. I don’t pretend to know all of her ins and outs, she is too complicated for that but with each visit we peel back another of her many layers, and delve a little deeper into this fascinating and charismatic city.

STAY

We have explored many hotels in Rome over the last thirty years. It is hard to select a favourite as each has offered up something different depending on what stage of life we have been at. There have been several we had hoped to forget but to this day still provide good dinner party fodder and then there are a few that have left a lasting imprint. Hotel de Russie for its terrace and garden, Palazzo Dama on the banks of the Tiber the former residence of the Malaspina dynasty, Piazza di Spagna 9 for its intimacy, design and location, right in the heart of Rome just by the Spanish Steps, G Rough, the 10 suite hotel within a cooee of Piazza Navona a perfect blend of the past and the present. Nobidonne Relais for its ceiling alfrescos, Palazzo Navona on the steps of Piazza Navona for its location and its roof top bar, The Rooms of Rome Palazzo Rhinoceros for its artistic take and on our last trip the intimate six suite Mama’s Home, where you swing open your doors and step straight out onto the cobblestones of Piazza di Campo de’ Fiori.

From top left to right: G Rough interior detailing, Suite interior at Rooms of Rome, Palazzo Rhinoceros, Beautiful gardens of Hotel De Russie, Sunset drinks at Palazzo Navona, Nobildonne Relais frontage, Roof Top Palazzo Navona, Facade Palazzo Dama, View of Mama’s Home Suite looking up from Campo De Fiori, Nobildonne Relais Alfresco ceilings in the Paolina Borghese Suite, Nobildonne Relais Paolina Borghese Suite, Mama’s Home suite, one of Piazza di Spagna 9’s six suites.

EAT

Eating in Rome. The list is long and the surface has not even been scratched. The following is a small curated collection of those that have been constants, ones that we have returned too with each visit. From the first caffe in the morning, a market visit through to a simple, delicious Roman fare in a Trattoria down a cobblestone laneway at the back of Trastevere,

CAFFE

With a particularly fastidious husband, who probably should have chosen a career in coffee roasting business, we have perched ourselves at hundreds of bars through out Rome in search of “Perfetto Caffe.” Sciascia, the century old bar, near the Vatican he has decided deserves the golden star award, to be taken at the bar surrounded by the locals on their early morning work commute. This should be washed down with a Roman pastry from either the century old Pasticceria Regoli or Roscioli Caffe, the only down side of these establishments is that their selection is extensive and it is near impossible to select just one delicious morsel.

MARKETS

With over 100 markets spread throughout Rome, there is much to select from. There are two however that have stood out from the many that we have visited. Mercato Trionfale, a neighbourhood institution, located just north of the Vatican Museums, Trionfale is the largest indoor market in Rome. You will not find many tourists here just locals sourcing their fresh produce for the day. Mercato Testaccio is the other, selling everything from fresh fruit and vegetables through to homemade goodies and souvenirs. There is plenty of inmarket dining options here with some enticing options to select from to keep those hunger pains at bay, try one of Casa Marco’s Pizza’s, delicious!

RESTAURANT

For the delicatessen lover, Beppe E I Suoi is your Nirvana. You will find Beppe Giovale’s formaggeria in the Jewish Ghetto, home to a phenomenal range, for any cheese aficionado a visit here is a must. Drop in next door to their adjoining restaurant and indulge in a glass from their superbly curated wine list whilst enjoying a tasting plate, try the Burrata, the best in Rome. A little further afield in the Centocelle district is DOL- Di Origine Laziale which provides the Romans with a wonderful selection of cheeses, wines and cured meats from the Lazio region. If distance is a distraction you can find a smaller selection in his recently opened off shoot in Trastevere, Poloco Trastevere.

To indulge in true Roman fare for lunch or dinner try Armando al Pantheon, Da Felice and Trattoria Monti, family run and affordable. In the Jewish corner, one of my favourites, Piperno, try the fried artichoke. Ristorante Nino just eighty steps from Piazza di Spagna and always recommended by locals, Tavernaccia da Bruno a trattoria-pizzeria, a well kept secret in the heart of Trastevere along with Da Gino al Parlamento a backstreet gem.

The ‘Eternal City’ is the reason we all flock to Rome, it is eternal, her streets overflowing with history. We want to witness the spaces shared by the gladiators of 264 BC, throw a coin in the Baroque fountains of the eighteenth century and marvel as the sunlight streams through the ceiling of a Roman temple built before Christ. We all share the same bucket list, her postcard sites imprinted on us since we were young. There is no need for me to highlight the “must do’s as we all know them too well. There are several things however that we have discovered that aren’t on the well beaten paths, which has taught us that sometimes it is worth wandering the road less travelled as here too there is much to marvel at.

VILLA BORGHESE

The beautiful, genteel Villa Borghese is a leafy oasis in the heart of the hustle and bustle of the city. The largest public park in Rome, our favourite way to explore it is by bike. Watch the peacocks on display as they prance past the zebras at Bioparco di Roma Zoo, their shimmering blue and green tail plumage, a dazzling sight. Children’s laughter filters through the beautifully kept botanical gardens as they indulge in pony rides on the weekends or watch an puppet show at Viale dei Bambini. Wander along Viale Del Lago around the Lake, feed the swans whilst cooling off with a gelato or caffe from Casina del Lago. If your feeling energetic hire one of the row boats and take a paddle around the lake, marvel at its centre piece, Temple of Asciepius, honouring the Greek god of medicine and healing. Once you tire of this meander up to “Pincio” for one of the best views of Rome stretching out over Piazza Del Popolo and St Peter’s Bascilia.

Indulge your senses with a visit to one of the greatest collections of Baroques sculptures in Rome at Galleria Borghese located within the grounds of the park. Originally home to Cardinal Scipione Borghese whose passion for art was insatiable. His collection is staggering, originally his own private collection the Borghese Family opened the Gallery to the public in 1903.

GALLERIA DORIA PAMPHILJ

For the art aficionado, Galleria Doria Pamphilj is a haven. This lavish 17th century Roman- Rococo palace is a hidden gem that lies behind a modest lemon tree clad courtyard, I often question myself if it is the art collection that seduces me or is it the palace itself, with its mesmerising frescos and overwhelming opulence. Still owned by the powerful Italian family, the Doria Pamphilj there are over 600 works including pieces by Titan, Carracci, Bernini and Bruegel. Heir Jonathan Pamphilj still resides here with his family, occupying only ten of the thousand rooms. His narration on the free audio guide is a must as it brings the Palace alive with family anecdotes of times gone by and an insightful look into the background of this masterpiece.

VIA APPIA ANITCA

Via Appia Antica also known as the Appian Way, is one of the oldest and most important “super highways” of ancient Rome. Originally a major transport hub, it connected the Capital of the Roman Empire to the ports of Brindisi in the south opening this power house up to the east. It has become a destination for archaeological tourism, a beautiful place to visit not just for history and culture lovers but for anyone wishing to absorb themselves in jaw dropping scenery and to be transported to another world, a world far from the hustle and bustle of Rome. A short walk or taxi ride through Trastevere, past the Circus Maximus and the Caracalla Baths and you are soon on the Via Appia walking along the same stone road that Julius Caesar and St Peter once did.

The section that runs through this district of Rome is still well preserved and easily navigated. The cobblestone road here is flanked by beautiful homes and gardens to match. The umbrella pines of the Appian way stretch all the way along this section as do small fountains that have run for thousands of years, both are a welcome relief from the heat in the height of summer, the fountains offering cool water to passers by from the natural springs that run below.

The first ten miles closest to Rome along the Appian Way has been turned into an archaeological park, the Parco Regionale Dell’Appia Antica. Follow the road here to the Visitors Centre where motorised and non motorised bikes can be hired to make the journey onwards easier. There is much to see all the way along here, one of most remarkable sites being the Catacombs of which there are three. The most significant of these are the Catacombs of San Callisto and Catacombs of San Sebastiano. It had been an ancient Roman ruling that no one was permitted to be buried within the walls of the city while the Pagans of Rome were cremated the Christians and Jewish preferred to be buried. These catacombs are something to behold with the tomb flanked tunnels running up to twenty miles in length and and many layers deep.

The Catacombs of San Callisto and San Sebastiano

Continuing along this atmospheric thoroughfare and at the three mile mark you will encounter the impressive fortress, the tomb of Cecilia Metella, housed in a foreboding round mausoleum which towers down across the Appian Way. Built in honour of the daughter-in-law of Marcus Licinius Crassus, Rome’s richest man, the tomb was later converted into the fortress that you see today. The Temple of Hercules, Circus of Massenzio and the Park of the Aqueducts are other impressive monuments that line the way, amazing remnant, all testament to Rome’s glorious ancient times.

Our journey along the Appian Way to date has been one of our most memorable experiences, a must especially if you are travelling with kids or teenagers. If time permits try to visit on a Sunday when the road is closed to all traffic, it is an amazing day out offering such a wealth of attractions to explore.

The Eternal city, with its umbrella pines and ivory wrapped facades, built on layers of buried history, would take aa lifetime to know. Beside being a visual record of one of the greatest ancient empires it is her people and their way of life that is one of her greatest attractions. Although holding the title of “Capital”, she doesn’t have the same frenetic characteristics that most capital cities across the world have. Her pace is slower, gentler and it appears like her Southern cousins that leisure is valued more than productivity. I could easily live here and spend the rest of my days indulging in her way of life and wandering endlessly through her historical, cobblestone streets.