June 2018

Puglia, still relatively untouched with the tourist brigade will seduce you with her silver lined olive orchards, her Trulli and her rocky sun soaked beaches. Our journey here didn’t run as smoothly as had been anticipated. Forty eight hours after leaving Australia, a series of flight strikes and all luggage lost in transit we finally arrived at 2am into Bari airport, the gateway to Puglia. From here the car was collected and we crawled quietly south, none of us capable of stringing a nice sentence together. A combination of sleep deprivation, unlit /unsigned roads and a Nav Man who only spoke Italian, ensured the trip was memorable and on missing the hotel turn off I was sure Boyd’s “detour” was taking us straight to the divorce courts. Everything was forgotten however at 3am in the darkness down a tiny country lane, security flung open the imposing gates and there she stood, in all her grandeur, Borgo Egnazia.

Sprawled across 20 hectare in Savelletri di Fasano, native architect Pino Brescia is the creative mind behind this amazing reconstructed Puglian “Borgo” or village. Working closely with the Melpignano family over a period of 10 years, his vision is awe inspiring. A fortified village with a central piazza, narrow alleyways that weave their way past fountains and a bell-towered church, the 92 stone townhouses and villas that make up the village are the perfect blend of tradition and elegance. Brescia’s attention to detail is exceptional, everything is ridiculously perfect, from the bougainvillea covered walls, to the heavily scented jasmine underneath our window that wafts through our apartment leaving it beautiful scented. Prickly pear flanks the driveways behind the stone walls and perfectly positioned ladders are lit up at night with dozens of small fairy lights next to flowering cacti, it is almost surreal in its curation.

Architect Pino Brescia and the fabulous Borgo Egnazia

The facilities available are extensive, four beautifully appointed pools, beach club, golf course, tennis courts, fitness classes or a well equipped gym if you prefer to go it alone. There is a bike hire service area to make transport around the grounds easier and the perfect way to explore the towns and region outside of the Borgo. The spa is inspired by the thermal baths of the Romans and just next door their private olive orchard where they bottle its fabulous pickings. Several of these made their way home with us and each time a piece of fresh sourdough is dipped into this golden liquid we are transported back to those warm summer days where the scent of jasmine floated through the air and the biggest decision that needed to be made was which pool or restaurant would be frequented that day.

Rooms

There are three superb types of accommodation to choose from and I tossed with the decision for days. We settled on La Corte Splendida, with its white washed limestone walls, beautiful bathrooms and generously sized rooms, we were not disappointed. Superb detail through out from the furniture and linens through to the lamps and wall decorations, all pieces were specifically designed for the hotel by local artisans in the area. The front balcony area was complete with table and seating and looked out over the central Piazza and across the chimney tops to the ancient olive groves beyond. Up a small flight of stairs from here was our roof top terrace, another fabulous area with views out over the Adriatic

INTERIORS: Beautifully appointed rooms, understated luxury

EXTERIORS: Views from the Roof top Terrace and Sitting Area

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Probably one of our favourite areas was the central piazza were we would gather in the afternoon for an Aperitif. Once a fortnight the area really comes alive with traditional Puglian festivals filled with dancing, entertainers and live cooking stations, it is a fabulous evening out.

Culinary Delights

Food is a serious affair here, having grown up in a family whose conversation have always revolved around food, from where we have eaten, what we have eaten and how it was prepared, I had arrived at the right place. The food is exceptional across all dining options available. Its not just the food however it is the service and the aesthetics of each restaurant that lifts it to another level in the culinary wonderland world.

Out And About

There is much to do in this area of Puglia. An easy bike ride from Borgo is the ancient Roman city of Egnazia, its ruins thought to date back many millennia. The laid back seaside town of Savellerti is an easy fifteen minute flat ride, here enjoy a seafood platter for lunch at Pescheria 2 Mari, a working fishmonger’s haunt which has recently started to attract a crowd especially to their aperitivo bar in the late afternoon. The coastlines along from here are speckled with exclusive beach clubs if a day bed and beach service is more you style. Borgo Egnazia’s Cala Masciola, is only a 5 minute bike ride or it you prefer, there is a shuttle that runs every half an hour.

The villages of Alberobello, Ostuni, Polignano a Mare, and Locorotondo are all close by and definitely worth visiting. Driving in this area is very easy, the roads are clearly marked and easily navigated. I wish that time had allowed for more exploration around this entire region, we have not even touched the surface of this district, a month would have done nicely!

Alberobello

The charming little town of Alberobello with her white washed Trulli, now declared A UNESCO world heritage site. Spend the morning wandering her narrow little laneways and marvel at their construction. Tip: Go early before the crowds arrive, especially if you are driving as parking is limited.

Ostuni

Ostuni, the white city and one of the most beautiful I have seen with her labyrinthine streets, her white washed homes and her grand ancient walls wrapped around her base keeping her safe from intruders of the past. Tip: Stand by the sea while the sun sets looking up to Ostuni and watch as the city’s white walls are painted pink.

Polignano a Mare

We returned to Polignano A Mare several times during our stay. Her rugged ravine toped with the colours of the town, her sides filled with caves there for the adventurous to explore. We found ourselves again winding the laneways of the atmospheric Centro Storico, finding small, local holes in the wall at which to dine. There were no menus here, just Nonna, conducting from front of house, hands whirling through the air as quickly as she shouted instructions to who ever would listen. Organised chaos, it felt like we were home, the food fresh and authentic and some of the best we had eaten in Puglia.

Locorotondo

Perched up on a hill that takes in the beautiful vistas of this region of Puglia, the town is deserved of the acolade “ Borghi piu belli d’Italia” or in English, One of the most beautiful villages in Italy. White washed and renowned for her white wine, a few hours meandering through her tiny laneways in a morning well spent

Our visit to Puglia was magic. It is still relatively untouched but I am not sure for how much longer this will be the case. The pace is slow, midday siesta’s still take place in all the towns we visited. The men of the towns still congregate daily in the squares, conversing and indulging in a game of cards whilst the Nonna’s above hang their washing across makeshift lines, catching the summer breezes as they blow through the narrow labyrinths of the Centro Storico below. Borgo Egnazia stands as a haven, our stay here was pure indulgence, a once in a lifetime experience, I hope that one day soon we will be able to return to discover more of this magnificent region.