November 2019

Los Angeles, the City of Angeles a sprawling metropolis bathed in endless sunshine with seventy miles of achingly beautiful coastline lapping at her sides. Often viewed as just a “stop over” for Transpacific visitors, the city on first visiting can seem overwhelming by her sheer sprawl, but with planning and a hire care she is easily navigated, easy that is with the exception of peak hour which is an experience in itself. Claimed and settled by the Spanish as their own in 1542, it would be Mexico that would fly her flag over this growing town in 1821. It would not be until 1848 that the Star spangled banner would ring out across the town after being acquired along with California by the Yanks.

STAY

There has been much debate amongst friends and colleagues around where to stay in LA. We have tried both inner city hotels as well as along the coastline. For us as a family and I think the same would go for anyone travelling with children or teenagers, anywhere along the coastline from Malibu through to Santa Monica is ideal. You have the beach and the bike ways at your doorstep and no matter what time of year you are visiting even in the depth of their winter the sun is always shining and conducive to outdoor activities.

There are a pocketful of favourites that we have collected along the way, The Surfrider at Malibu being one of these. Recently renovated by owners Californian architect Matthew Goodwin and his Australian wife Emma Crowther-Goodwin along with close friend Alessandro Zampedri, the trio have transformed this original 1950’s motel into a cool, Californian beach house. With its relaxed, laid back vibe and light filled rooms the fit out is filled with earthy tones and natural fibers. Mini Coopers are available for use during your stay as are surfboards and beach towels, with Surfrider Beach just a 100 meter jaunt from the front door this comes in very handy.

Further along the coast is another one of our well frequented hotels, Loews. Its this hotels location that has been the major draw card for us. Sitting on Santa Monica beach, with the Pier at your door step as well as bike hire, it is a hotel of convenience. Car hire is another attraction with both Hertz and Avis located within the hotel making it extremely convenient if a car is needed during your stay, there is no taxiing for pick up and drop offs, it is all done at reception on the ground floor. Built in the 1980’s it was renovated in early 2017 and sits in that mid range level, a perfect spot for families.
If luxury is what your after in a similar location then Shutters on the Beach, three doors down is your go too. A beach front icon with views to match, this is the place to visit when you are flush. I love the art spread through out the hotel and the fact that you can step out straight onto the sands of Santa Monica. Tip: not many of the rooms provide Ocean views, when booking be very specific with your request to ensure that your room does have full views across the Pacific if this is what you are after.

. 

From Left to Right: Loews Atrium, Loews From Santa Monica Beach, Shutters from Santa Monica Beach

SEE

A cruise along the Marvin Braude beach trail under the Californian sun is one of our favourite things to do in LA. There are a myriad of Bike hire locations on either side of the Santa Moncia Pier. The trail runs for 35 kilometers from Will Rogers State Beach in the north all the way down to Torrance County beach in the south. Make a day of it, taking in the sights of Santa Monica, Venice Boardwalk, Marina Del Rey Harbors and Muscle Beach. The bike track is flat all along here and easily manageable for any fitness level.

One of the many cafes that line the bike ways of Santa Monica, perfect spot to pull over for a cool drink and something to eat.

Take a break at Venice Beach’s famous Skate park.

If bike riding isn’t your thing but horse riding is, there are numerous ranches located around LA offering some great trail rides through differing areas. The two we have used have been picked purely for geographical purposes. If staying in Malibu or Santa Monica there are two close by. Will Rogers Trail Rides is a 15 minute drive from Santa Monica and offers a beautiful trail loop up through the Santa Monica mountains with amazing views extending out across the Pacific. Our other recommendation would be Los Angeles Horseback Riding, sitting on top of the highest ridge in the Santa Monica mountains in the Topanga Canyon, they offer a wide range of different ride options that will take you all through the Canyon of the Topanga State Park capturing some beautiful scenery and breathtaking views from the peak of the ridge.

The hiking trails of Griffith Park are somewhere we continually return too, with the walk up to the Hollywood sign being one of our favourites. There are three routes that meander through the rolling chaparral of the Santa Monica Mountains and up to the sign, The Hollywood Trail, The Brush Canyon Trail and the Cahuenga Peak Trail, all of them offering breathtaking views across the towers and lights of LA and through to the Pacific. Add the 45 foot tall aluminum letters towering in front of you to the view and its all quite surreal. We try to do the walk during the week when the trails are less busy, if time permits time your decent in the late afternoon and drop into the Art Deco Griffith Observatory to take in the sunset view… Spectacular!

ART SCENE

Los Angeles is a melting pot for creatives and the art scene is extensive. Opened in 2015 by philanthropists Eli and Edythe Broad, The Broad housed in an architectural landmark downtown, the curated exhibitions draw from one of the worlds most renowned collections of contemporary art and is a must to add to the “to do list”.

SHOP

As someone that loves the small independent retailers, Abbot Kinney is my go too. A melting pot of young designers and talented collectors with their stores offering carefully curated one off pieces, the food scene here is sizzling as well.

SHOP: Nick Fouquet, Heist, Burro, Huset, General Store, Toms, The Piece Collective, Toms, Strange Invisible Perfumes, Tortoise General Store, Aesop, Rag & Bone and Bazar

EAT: Gjelina is a must, their pizzas are some of the best in LA ( if you cant get a seat order your pizzas takeaway), MTN ( Gjelina’s third store) The Butchers Daughter, Felix, Plant, Food and Wine and The Tasting Plate. On the first Friday of each month the food trucks roll into town for a food feast extravaganza everything you could want from all corners of the globe providing a great evening out., the butchers daughter

Left to Right: Nick Fouquet inside his Atelier and Lunchtime at The Butchers Daughter

MALIBU

Lunch or dinner at Malibu Pier is always on the cards, a favourite destination of all three of ours. Dating back to 1905 this iconic landmark offers extensive views across the Pacific and perfect spot to watch the surfers and dolphins at play. Helene Henderson dishes up superb local cuisine in the beautiful white washed dining room, Malibu Farm Restaurant and Bar. If something more casual is in order Malibu Farm Cafe is found at the end of the pier open for breakfast through to sunset dinners with a more relaxed menu still filled with farm fresh, local and organic ingredients.

Fishing rods, Stand Up Paddleboards, kayaks and surfboards are all available for hire from the Beach Rentals Shop if a dip is in order. Ranch at the Pier, is a store located at the very end of the Pier and in the words of its owners “celebrates the history of Malibu and the California coast: the surf & skate culture, the magnificent nature & hiking, the fishing, boating and auto/motorcycle culture. The shop represents everything that Malibu is, and we hope guests from all over will see that we’ve put Malibu under a magnifying glass for everyone to see and enjoy” We have never left empty handed from this multi levelled emporium that celebrates all things Californian.

THE LA BREA TAR PITS

Bubbling up from deep inside the earths interior, The La Brea Tar Pits are one of the most visited sites in Los Angeles. These tar pits have been bubbling for tens of thousands of years, paleontologist work everyday of the year unearthing over 3.5 million fossils preserved over the centuries. Many of these are and on display here in the George C Page Museum. If your travelling with children this is another one to add to the bucket list.

Philanthropist George C. Page with the Lake Pit mammoth family in 1985.

Overwhelmed by her sheer size on my first visit, and indifferent to a return visit, I have grown to love this city. With each visit the stop overs have become longer. With so much to offer this youthful, Californian city is a vibrant hub of creativity, with an excellent food scene, superb shopping and overflowing with natural beauty from her rugged mountains and valley through to her sundrenched beaches, she has become a favourite to explore.