July 2018
We discovered Holbox by default, after befriending a Dutch couple on the beach in Tulum. We heard the tales of their travels, places they had loved and places that they would not hurry to return too. Hands down the most beautiful place they had discovered during their six month hiatus in Mexico had been the island of Holbox, Isla Holbox. Untouched by tourism, the clearest waters imaginable, flanked by wild flamingos and where the whale sharks frolicked in the pristine waters during their summer migration, it sounded like paradise. Unsure of when we would be returning to Mexico we decided to spend a day there to see if it would be somewhere we would consider coming back to in the future.
Founded by pirate descendants in 1873, Isla Holbox is in the north west corner of Quintana Roo a 2 1/2 hour drive north of Tulum, here the beautiful clear waters of the Caribbean Sea meets the Gulf of Mexico. The small fishing village of Chiquila is the gateway to Holbox with the only ferry service running from here. If adhering to the ferry timetable is difficult however, there are many fisherman and boat owners around the marina area that are more than happy to negotiate a fair price to take you across the shallow lagoon to Holbox and wait until you are ready to return to the mainland.
CHIQUILA TO HOLBOX
Its the water shade that hits you first as you crawl across to the Island, it is like swimming in a glass of perfectly made Gin and Tonic. We spent the first few hours on the north east tip of the island in the warm, shallow waters of the lagoon, you could walk two to three kilometers and the water depth stayed the same. This area is home to the flamingo colonies. There are strict rules around maintaining your distance but it is incredible to see these shrimp hued creatures up close and in their natural habitat. We were overwhelmed by the sheer numbers of them, hundreds upon hundreds as far as the eye could see, their colour blending so perfectly with the turquoise water.
Pulling into the arrival jetty the artistic affinity of the island is evident everywhere. From the murals that decorate the sides of the concrete huts to the remnants of buildings that jut out of the sea, colour covers everything. As far as the eye can see are little huts and restaurants all along the shoreline where bronzed bodies wander in and out, barefoot in their crochet bikinis. Listening to the accents, Holbox is definitely on the European radar and you can see why, its natural surroundings are absurdly beautiful.
Downtown Holbox is like stepping back in time. There are no cars on the island instead pastel beach cruisers and golf carts rule the sand lined streets. Time moves slowly, kids roam freely and there is not a chain store in site. Magnificent bright street art cover the walls throughout the entire tiny town. Small boutiques selling beautiful dream catchers and hand made leather sandals sit alongside restaurants that sell the best ceviche we have ever eaten, and all for under $10 AUD. Its so rare to find places like this anymore and I ponder how long it will be able to last.
DOWNTOWN HOLBOX
Down by the beach fisherman sell their fruits from the ocean under thatched roof huts, day beds swing between the palm trees whilst others enjoy a sunset margarita, rocking gently in hammocks in the shallow, turquoise waters. We board our little vessel for the trip back to Chiquila, a pod of dolphins race us out into the deeper waters as the sun sets across the ocean in the west, the sky a blaze, the beauty of it all is surreal. Its moments like this that remind me of why we travel, travel changes you, it opens your eyes again, to be in awe, to be inspired. The beauty of Holbox lies in its simplicity, its natural environment and the creatures that inhabit this environment. If you are after the bright lights and the five star restaurants then this probably isn’t your island but if you are after a chance to disconnect and just immerse yourself in beauty and the slow lane, book in soon. You can sense the tide is changing with big business muscling its way in and transforming this tiny treasure forever.
.
