HAVANA CUBA

June 2018

Nothing quite prepares you for Cuba and it hits you immediately. You could almost categorize the collection of ones luggage as a National sport, there are no conveyer belts here, just one large outdoor shed where all incoming luggage is piled high. One must clamber quickly and forcefully over the large mounds on the hunt for ones trunk. In the chaos I feel a tinge of envy at those who have invested in brightly coloured cases, they strike early, dust themselves off and head towards immigration with a knowing smile beaming across their face. Transitioning through immigration itself is where the next surprise lies. You are greeted by an all female immigration crew. Young, beautiful and decked out in a well cut uniform, tailored top, shorts and elaborately patterned, fishnet stockings, their cigarette smoke a mix with their perfume and the heavy humidity…..”Bienvenido a Cuba” they purr and what a welcome it is.

The drive into Havana is a sensory overload. Insulated from the world for over half a century it has been largely preserved. The heat, the smell the colourful history still intact, it’s raw and it’s intriguing and so different from any place we have been before. We chose to stay at Gran Hotel Manzana Kempinski which had just opened four weeks prior to our arrival. This grand old dame has been given a vibrant face lift, nestled in the heart of Old Havana or Habana Vieja as the locals refer to it, with everything we wanted to explore at our doorstep.

GRAN HOTEL MANZANA KEMPINSKI

We loved our stay here. The room was large with beautiful high ceilings and accommodated the three of us well. The floor to ceiling doors that opened out onto the balcony was a bonus, in the early mornings, before the heat hit, they would be flung open and the sounds of the city coming alive would filter in to the room. The roof top was superb. Sitting amongst the 18th century building tops whilst the infinity pool gently lapped, enjoying a Cuban rum over ice are moments that are hard to forget. Even harder was the sound of a Cuban quartet gently strumming in the background whilst the sky turned pink and the sun sank behind El Capitolio and then down along the seafront at Malecon…..magic.

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Rooms Of Kempinski : From Top Cigar Lounge, Cocktail Lounge, The Quartet, Level 3 Bar

Room with a View

From our Room

Much of our exploring was done on foot. At our doorstep literally, was one of Hemingway’s favourite haunts, El Floridita, where he spent many hours in the hallow corner which was and still is, reserved just for him.

RESTORATION OF HAVANA

Days are spent exploring the sites and scenes of Old and Central Havana. It is hot and humid, the bars are busy with locals and tourists as are the narrow lane ways. If you venture out of the main streets you get a real glimpse into the everyday way of life of the locals. You can start to see signs of the restorations taking place on some of the oldest and most significant buildings. Led by Eusebio Leal, a Cuban Historian the restoration of Old Havana and its historical center, declared in 1982 a UNESCO World heritage site, is well underway. I had read a lot about Eusebio Leal over the years his work and his passion for his country. His interview with Lucía Iglesias Kuntz, from UNESCO was a stand out, a discussion surrounding the significant obstacles faced whilst restoring areas through out Havana. Kunst questioned whether he ever tired of working for Havana, to which he replied:

Eusebio Leal director of the restoration program of Old Havana and it historical center.

The Streets of Old Havana

In the late afternoons we would head towards the sea and along The Malecon, Havana’s Smile. An extensive seven kilometer sea drive that stretches the breadth of the city, where locals and tourists alike come on dusk, to meet and catch up on the days events. Many perch on the seawall enjoying the afternoon breeze and the view, and what a view it is stretching from La Punta Fortress and the Harbour all the way down to the Almendares River. Life is simple. It is slow and I find it refreshing after the hustle and bustle of normal life.

AMERICAN VINTAGE CARS OF HAVANA

No visit to Havana is complete without a ride in one of the American vintage cars for which Cuba is renowned for. Hailing one is an easy feat, located on nearly every corner in the main tourist areas. Some are used as a form of collective public transport for locals and others are purely there for touring visitors. It doesn’t come cheap however, for 3 hours your hip pocket will be AUD $250 lighter but for us it was definitely a highlight. We roamed all over Havana with Carlos our driver. From Cigar making factories to all of the historical sites, cruising down the Malecon under the shabby magnificence with the wind in our hair and the music up loud was yet another surreal experience. We heard his stories of what life was like living in Havana from schools to healthcare, who served up the best food, where the best places to dance were and what he thought about the changes that they were witnessing as Cuba slowly opens up to the world once again. This is another “Havana” experience to add to your bucket list.

LA GUARIDA HAVANA

Of all the places we ate In Havana our favourite was the atmospheric La Guarida. The Paladar were opened behind closed doors by families in their homes around Havana during the 1960’s in desperation to earn a living. La Guarida is hidden in the heart of the crumbling yet majestic Centro Habana. It is an eccentric, fine dining experience that reminded me of small Parisian restaurants from decades ago. Bookings are essential, often needing to be done two months in advance of your arrival. The link below takes you through to their website and booking facilities.

Our trip into Havana was fleeting, what was meant to be a week of exploring not just Havana but the towns outside, was cut short due to flight cancellations both coming in and and out of the country. It is not easily navigated when things do go wrong. Wifi is nearly non existent , the hotel does provide wifi but this was extremely hit and miss and generally only available between midnight and 2 am. There is no mobile roaming meaning calls to the outside are impossible, English is limited, credit cards generally not accepted, currency can only be purchased once in the country and there are two currencies to navigate. All this aside, its raw beauty, its history and its people really touched me and I hope someday to return, to venture further afield into her countryside and along her renowned coastlines. Cuba is an adventurous destination on the verge of massive change. Try to visit before this change comes, to glimpse the real Cuba before the ways of the west penetrate her shores.