June 2017

ZIGHY BAY OMAN

A surreal desert oasis hidden amongst the hostile terrain of the Hajar Mountains, Zighy Bay’s rustic chic blends beautifully with the stark surroundings.

Collected from the Dubai airport we embark on a two hour journey through the UAE and then across the boarder into Musandam. The land through here forms the northeastern point of the Arabian Peninsula governed predominantly by the Omanis. The landscape is probably the most dramatic I have seen. The mighty limestone ranges of The Hjar Mountains rise 20000 meters from the sea, towering over the deep valleys and ravines. Fjords tangle there way along the steep sides, the cliffs resembling giant fortresses standing guard to keep people out. At the tip of this rocky outcrop that juts out into the Strait of Hormuz the cliffs give way to the beautiful, blue waters ,these crystal clear bays gently lap the coastlines all along this region.

Driving in to Zighy Bay

Six Senses Zighy Bay is nestled at the foot of these dramatic mountain ranges spreading across eighteen acres, along 2 kilometers of sandy beach. They have done a remarkable job design wise, its indigenous chic so in keeping with the stark beauty of the surrounding scenery blending inconspicuously into the landscape.

We have stayed in several Six Senses properties in different parts of the world and love the philosophy of the brand. The sensitivity given in the design of their resorts along with consideration for the surrounding enviroment and local communities is commendable and something I really admire, it has often swayed my decision making when making bookings.

The days are slow in Zighy Bay, with much of it involving water, from swimming or paddle boarding in the buoyant warm waters of the Gulf of Oman or cooling off in ones own private pool found in each Villa, its a hard choice to make. Backgammon and swaying in the breeze under the palms in a hammock are on rotate as is bike riding, exploring this extensive resort when the heat of the day subsides. Whether it be a ride up to the spa or exploring the sustainable vegetable gardens, artisanal cheese making or another swim in one of the resorts two large communal pool oasis’s, the list is extensive.

For those that are after something more adventurous, launching yourself from the 293 meter cliff above the resort either by way of microlight or paragliding is an option. Diving and snorkeling the local reefs that are bursting with colour and marine life was a highlight as was the cruise in a traditional Omani dhow which swept us along the coastline to admire the coastal fjords and villages of Haffa, Charia, Hamra, and Lima.

A cruise along the chiseled coastline in Dhaab, a traditional Omani Dhow was a highlight for all of us

Another must if you visit is an off road adventure which takes you back in time in the mountains of Dibba and the Sabatyn plateau. Here we experienced the untamed beauty of the Hajar mountains and witnessed the most spectacular sunset I have ever seen, setting the sky on fire as it sank down into the Gulf of Oman. We heard the stories of the area, of villages that had once stood there, of the harshness of life on the land. There were stories of drug trafficking and of lone shepherds tending to goat herds, seeking refuge from the Taliban in the safety of this desolate wilderness.

The Australian and the Omani. 30 years ago Musandam had belonged to the Shihuh tribes ( the hill people) who lived in scattered villages between the peaks. With the discovery of black old, the Shihuh realised that an alliance with either the UAE or Oman would need to be formed. The Shihuh opted to become Omani.

For the foodies out there, the resort offered up a host of gastronomical delights, so much so that the food we moaned and groaned over is worthy of its own blog post.

There are several restaurants scattered across the property and we made it our mission to immerse ourselves in all of them. We experienced everything from inhouse and beach dining through to a mind blowing fine dining experience up at the peak at Sense on the Edge. From the peak to the Alfresco bar and a mezze plate and Shua roasted lamb, the food at each venue was sensational. We had not been fortunate enough previously to try any traditional Arabic food and we were blown away. For those however who prefer a more traditional meal there is plenty on offer from every region of the globe and just as with the traditonal food that the region is famed for, this too will not disappoint.

Sense of the Edge, Fine Dining

I think the booking of Zighy bay initially, was to break the inevitable return to reality. It was looked upon as some sort of “softening the blow” that holidays had finished and the normality of work, school and routine was knocking at our door again. We arrived without expectation and we were blown away. Her remoteness, her hardened landscape, her raw beauty was intoxicating like nothing we had encountered before. I can not wait to return again one day.